For Fall 2013, Creative Director Thomas Steinbruck put together a collection that called to mind all the adjectives more commonly associated with a Porsche sports car: Slick, sexy, and sleek. Dubbing it “The Urban Modernist,” Steinbruck was inspired by rigorist construction and volume, compiling pictures of ’50s Russian Communist architecture and Alaïa’s work in the ’80s on his moodboard.
“I wanted a collection with an urban motive and a modern feel,” he told me, while showing off an above-the-hip cropped leather puffer in a high shine black. With its stand-up cocoon collar and subtle trapeze shape, the coat was an example of the designer’s structured volume play. He toyed with other urban standbys like the anorak and toggle coat by modernizing their utility. The latter was re-imagined in a glossy leather, with sleek panels of pockets re-done in nylon to keep it interesting. A traditional overcoat with abbreviated double lapels and straight-edge shoulders with a stripe of leather paneling wouldn’t look out of place in a Helmut Newton photograph. It’s easy to see why Kim Kardashian and Kanye West count themselves as fans of the luxe, high-gloss line.