At a time when most of America is just getting to know Prabal Gurung’s signature prints by way of his sure-to-sell-out Target collection, the designer seemed keen to showcase a different, stricter, more somber side of himself for Fall 2013.
This season, Gurung’s woman exuded power and control. The first look, an olive drab cargo pant and peplum top look, which was styled, established the collection’s military inspiration, which let Gurung play out some of the collection’s more aggressive motifs–pieces inspired by literal armor such as the harnesses, gladiator boots, and militaristic outerwear.
There was power in the evningwear, too. The silk frocks, slashed at the thighs and shoulders and draped just-so, were sexy to the core without being supplicant.
According to WWD, Gurung was inspired by the recent measures the U.S. military has taken to adapt their uniforms and gear (originally made for men) to their growing number of female troops.
“It came back to this idea of empowerment,” he said. “Traditionally, we tend to look at men’s uniforms and then redesign, but this was very much focused on women.”
But an empowered woman needn’t give up her femininity: Peplums, ruffles, and delicate prints, few though they were, made this an unmistakably womanly collection.