“I had a real specific character in mind this season,” Rachel Comey said of the girl who inspired her fall 2013 collection. “She’s got some information and you don’t know what it is but you want to find out.” Comey‘s spy girl, as it were, must go incognito, hence the striking pixie wigs worn by every model (props to the styling team at Bumble and bumble). So it follows that dressing up is also part of the job.
At the start of the show, Comey’s girl blended in with the boys in menswear-inspired tailored pieces like button down shirts (top button buttoned, thank you!) and slouchy pants with elastic cuffs. Then she showed her feminine side in tight printed jersey wrap dresses, a flowy shirt dress, and a candy cane striped number with a big flouncy skirt. If this girl has to blend in she’s got a lot to choose from. Maybe it wasn’t cohesive but maybe that was the point. I kept trying to pick out the references as the models went by–the light wash denim and slouchy knits looked ’80s (or like a Williamsburg girl’s version of the ’80s now), the boxy cropped jackets looked ’60s, the sunglasses and v-neck tops looked ’70s, and the tight printed knee-length dresses looked more ’40s. But when I asked Comey about a time period, she simply said “No, no, she’s now. She’s walking across tarmacs as we speak.”
And the girls of “now” are gonna want this stuff–even if they won’t be bold enough to pull off a head-to-toe look and go all double agent. Flanked by the Refinery 29 crew, I could hear them exclaiming over certain pieces, especially the shoes. This season, look out for the thick-heeled pumps with a tough harness-like ring detail over the bridge of the foot.