At the end of almost every one of his runway shows, Rochas designer Marco Zanini brings the audience to a rock-concert-level whoop. Fall 2013 was no different—they sure had plenty to cheer about.
The Rochas woman is typically inspired by the past, and this season, the focus was the 1950s–although we can’t imagine a pattern maker coming up with silhouettes this extreme back then. An A-line floral house coat was anything but fuddy-duddy because of its gigantic proportions. Zanini played with that extreme A-line quite a bit: he did an ankle-length brown wool coat, a grey wool circle skirt, a burgundy velvet skirt and many more. On some, the tops were tightly cinched at the waist to create that classic hourglass shape. On others, it was let loose, muumuu style.
At the other end of the spectrum was a quite narrow silhouette, almost tomboy but not completely. A marled wool grandpa cardigan, for instance, was made prim by the addition of fur cuffs and an ice-blue, midi-length pencil skirt. The polo sweater-blazer-trouser combos, the mid-century male’s uniform, were rendered in peach, lavender, burgundy and other lady colors.
There’s something a little off about Zanini’s work. And off, in this case, is a good thing. He never chooses the sharpest color or the sleekest silhouette. That little bit of messiness—that slightly unexpected moment—is what gets people thinking. And cheering.
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