While other designers speculate–with mixed results–about the fall/winter needs of metropolitan women, Carin Rodebjer’s presentation today at Pier 59 proved that she invariably knows her way around an urban snow drift or two. It’s no wonder she does, as cold weather is in this Swede’s DNA.
When we went backstage today to chat with her, we learned just how passionate she is about debunking the convention of designers showing cold-weather clothes that look great on the runway but don’t have much relevance on the street. Rodebjer’s strategy was about menswear tailoring softened–rather than sweetened–via injections of controlled femininity; a sheer, lace back-panel on a blouse, a fluid silk pant cut in jacquarded crepe de Chine, and statement knits rendered in the chunkiest of tape-yarns. These weren’t made trivial as a result of the usual “girly” treatment, but rather conceived to invoke a sophisticated woman’s subtle sensuality.
So were the presentation’s standout accessories: boots, tablet cases, t-strap maryjanes and handsome bags proved just as compelling as the apparel they accompanied. Though this was Rodebjer’s first season showing during New York’s fashion week, she’s been in the game for over eight years back in her native Sweden. She attributes her sensibilities to melding her inarguably Scandi-eye for intelligent design, with the New Yorker-cool she developed upon moving here to study at FIT. One thing’s for sure, Rodebjer’s mix feels authentically differentiated and–more importantly–pitch-perfect for fall 2013.