Thakoon Panichgul is a master at making clothes that are sweet without being saccharine, quirky without being twee.
Whereas last season, the designer was taken with a caged bird motif, for fall 2013 it was all about winter florals. Little black dresses were done in a delicate dandelion print (apparently he was inspired by Ray Bradbury’s Dandelion Wine). A digital floral print showed up on a cotton-sateen paneled dress and a sleeveless shell which was toughened up with a leather collar. But Panichgul didn’t forsake his fondness for winged creatures entirely: an embroidered dragonfly made an appearance on several tops.
There was a daintyness to everything–especially the black blouses and dresses with sheer lace insets. Even the sturdier goat skin pieces (yes, you read that right) came in soft Russian blue and berry. I especially liked the goat skin shawl collars that looked like lapels on a trench, worn belted over wispier looks. (If the street style this week has taught me anything, it’s the power of a fur collar to fancy-up a look.) The collection was appropriate for winter, but it felt airy and summery, too. And that’s not a bad thing in February when you’re longing for warmer months.