The 3 Most Buzzed About Shows From Day 6 of New York Fashion Week

No boring gray suits here--or at least not amongst the most buzzed about collections on Tuesday, when minimalist titan Narciso Rodriguez gave a mast
Avatar:
Author:
Publish date:
Social count:
3
No boring gray suits here--or at least not amongst the most buzzed about collections on Tuesday, when minimalist titan Narciso Rodriguez gave a mast
Image Title1

No boring gray suits here--or at least not amongst the most buzzed about collections on Tuesday, when minimalist titan Narciso Rodriguez gave a masterclass in exuberant pops of color. The Mulleavy sisters, meanwhile, gave their models the hautest tramp stamps ever (with a little help from Scott Campbell) and Oscar de la Renta had his Upper East Side ladies who lunch go madcap English aristocrat (with a little help from John Galliano).

IMAXtree

IMAXtree

Narciso Rodriguez Designer: Narciso Rodriguez

  • "Was it you who inspired Narciso Rodriguez’s fall collection? Rodriguez saw two women--not dressed particularly fancy or fashion forward--who crossed each other on the street one day at just the right moment of a winter solstice. The colors and shapes he saw were inspiring; luckily, he said, he had one of his trusty cameras in hand and captured it." [AP]
  • "It's a truism of fashion that everything comes back into style eventually, and it seems right now that '90s minimalism is (finally!) getting its due. Jil is back in charge at Jil Sander, Raf is manning the fort at Dior, and Narciso—New York's great minimalist—is on top of his game." [Daily Front Row]
  • "Slim cigarette pants, architectural tunics, and flattering dresses displayed his mastery with colorblocking, intricate pattern piecing, and origami-esque folds." [FabSugar]
  • "People arrived at Narciso Rodriguez’s show still debating how much influence John Galliano had in Oscar de la Renta’s collection, and marveling at the draped suits and capes. But Mr. Rodriguez had no difficulty changing the subject. The majority of styles in this impressive follow-up to last season’s sensational show played on geometrical shapes, specifically the triangle." [On The Runway/

    The New York Times]

  • "It was raves all around after Narciso Rodriguez's show tonight. The designer has been going from success to success lately, but this collection really got the blood pumping." [Style.com]
  • "Rodriguez smartly engaged his strong understanding of color and combined pieces in navy, magenta, and a sort of matte tangerine. The overall look was typically streamlined, if not as restricted as he’s shown in the past." [Vogue.com]
  • "Rodriguez does minimal and simple but he doesn't do stark--his look is one of elegance and wearability that comes with a warmth." [Vogue.com UK]

IMAXtree

IMAXtree

Oscar de la Renta Designers: Oscar de la Renta and John Galliano

  • "The question on guests’ minds as they took their seats was if Galliano, fired from Christian Dior two years ago after an anti-Semitic rant was caught on video, would stay at de la Renta’s house longer. They were left to continue the rumor mill, but for the 15 minutes of show, they were fully engrossed in the show." [AP]
  • "The collection de la Renta presented was classic Oscar—with, perhaps, a few touches reminiscent of Galliano’s Dior." [The Daily Beast]
  • "This was an Oscar de la Renta collection through and through, reinforced and subtly sparked by Galliano's suggestions and design traits." [

    The Daily Telegraph]

  • "Despite Galliano’s presence ‘in the building’, according to somebody who would know, Tuesday’s show did little to clarify the terms of this working relationship. What it did accomplish was to present some awfully gorgeous clothes." [ELLEuk.com]
  • "With silk gowns in rich jewel tones, pre-Revolutionary Russian embroidery and a theatrical play on ladylike with bright, sheer opera gloves teamed with New Look era tea dresses, De la Renta’s luxe madame definitely had an injection of off-kilter energy." [Grazia Daily]
  • "While the sight of two dynamic hands in one collection was remarkable, this show will also raise more questions than it will answer. Mr. de la Renta has given no indication of his intention to retire, but he has not ruled out asking Mr. Galliano to stay." [On The Runway/The New York Times]
  • "When his PR chief was asked if Galliano had worked on the collection, she demurred, saying, 'Well, he is backstage.' There was that, and then there were the clothes themselves. Certain looks seemed very much to bear the Englishman's hand, especially the opening jackets with their draped necklines and flaring hips; there was something of Dior's classic Bar silhouette in them." [Style.com]
  • "'It was,' said DVF, 'a beautiful conversation.' She’s referring, of course, to the dialogue between de la Renta and John Galliano, which has been going on since the latter took studio space in the former’s midtown atelier some time ago. Whatever they fell to talking about was clearly stimulating; this was an elegant collection that fused rigor and romanticism with a flourish and was a powerful reminder of what each designer does so brilliantly, which is to say, cut and construct like nobody’s business." [Vogue.com]
  • "As to how much of a helping or literal hand Galliano may have had with this specific collection no official comment was made, but we couldn't help but note the silhouettes and drama of the first few looks to have something of that Galliano grandeur about them." [Vogue.com UK]
  • "So what was the plot line? A tale of two designers, it had mystery, suspense, harmony, beauty, optimism--and some truly great clothes." [WWD]

IMAXtree

IMAXtree

Rodarte Designers: Kate and Laura Mulleavy

  • "A more West Coast rock-and-roll take on winter wear." [AFP]
  • "Not all of it worked. Then again, we’ve seen a lot of sameness on the runways this week. (Fur! Menswear fabrics!). At least these fashion free spirits had the creative juices flowing." [All The Rage/

    Los Angeles Times]

  • "Design sisters Laura and Kate Mulleavy grew up in sunny Santa Cruz, Calif., and evoked their seaside hometown in their fall collection. But perhaps only to them. 'It's really our own version of it,' Laura Mulleavy said backstage." [AP]
  • "The label's designer sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy showcased a collection in a mash-up of styles, colours and subcultures, inciting quite the mixed reaction in the fashion world." [The Daily Mail]
  • "It's tempting to keep probing for answers and over analyse Rodarte's references but the main thing is that despite being deliberately disparate, it felt like a collection that once again tapped into the sisters' cleverly nuanced sensibility. Nothing was too obvious and that was satisfying to see." [The Daily Telegraph]
  • "What is a California childhood made of? For Rodarte designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the components look like: board shorts, skater jackets, bodysuits, tie-dye, tattoos and barbed wire crowns." [ELLEuk.com]
  • "Rodarte's Fall 2013 collection could be summed up in four words: punk rock prom queen." [FabSugar]
  • "This is the stuff that fashionistas dreams are made of--and these surrealistic siblings are here to help those dreams come true." [Grazia Daily]
  • "Tie-dye and beaded angels’ wings were the most graphic elements of a Rodarte collection that had people talking about skaters, goth and bikers. There were a lot of disparate elements to digest in the multilayered outfits of the sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, and it might take some time to sort them all out." [On The Runway/The New York Times]
  • "Where you come down on the collection will have a lot to do with how nostalgic you are for your own youth—that and your tolerance for fashions of the late eighties. The era happens to be one of this reporter's sweet spots, which made the tie-dye gowns with the strange double-faced foam shoulder straps and bibs that arrived in the middle of the show pretty irresistible." [Style.com]
  • "Soulful and affecting." [Vogue.com]
  • "It was grunge and it was gothic, Nineties and theatrical, skate culture, LA surfers, fairytale princesses and Eighties street kids. Yep, that's a lot of different references to slip into one collection--it got more historical and billowy at times too--but somehow they all seamlessly blended into one." [Vogue.com UK]
  • "Their fall lineup also fell close to the hometown tree, with the designers flying the flag for the outer-limits charm of West Coast free spirits while making a real effort to show something that earthlings will buy and wear." [WWD]