The 5 Most Buzzed About Shows From Day 5 of New York Fashion Week

There was a lot to like, and even more to love, on the fifth day of fashion week. Critics found it hard to pick one favorite--or even three--on a day that saw Carolina Herrera commission a capriccio, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen take on a maison particulier in the Upper East Side, Olivier Theyskens delve into retro-futurism, Phillip Lim perfect his cool-girl aesthetic and Thom Browne stage a full-on performance piece.
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There was a lot to like, and even more to love, on the fifth day of fashion week. Critics found it hard to pick one favorite--or even three--on a day that saw Carolina Herrera commission a capriccio, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen take on a maison particulier in the Upper East Side, Olivier Theyskens delve into retro-futurism, Phillip Lim perfect his cool-girl aesthetic and Thom Browne stage a full-on performance piece.
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There was a lot to like, and even more to love, on the fifth day of fashion week. Critics found it hard to pick one favorite--or even three--on a day that saw Carolina Herrera commission a capriccio, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen take on a maison particulier in the Upper East Side, Olivier Theyskens delve into retro-futurism, Phillip Lim perfect his cool-girl aesthetic and Thom Browne stage a full-on performance piece.

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3.1 Phillip Lim Designer: Phillip Lim

  • "Perhaps the most fun item ... was saved for last: A lavishly embellished denim jumpsuit. For good measure, it was paired with a motorcycle vest in black leather: classic Lim." [AP]
  • "3.1 Phillip Lim delivered to his legions of fans with his cool-girl-chic Fall 2013 collection, shown in an industrial space inside the New York City central post office." [FabSugar]
  • "Looks were expertly multi-layered – impressively sans bulk given the number of pieces contributing to many of the ensembles, and crafted in striking autumnal hues with hints of pink and turquoise thrown into the mix." [SHOWstudio]
  • "Those looks will move at retail, particularly the motorcycle vests and jackets that had a fluid, feminine spin. But the most interesting pieces in this show saw Lim interpreting his theme more liberally and conjuring a kind of shrugged-on, to-hell-with-it errant-ness." [Style.com]
  • "Sono Mama is the name of the collection. It’s a phrase that means 'as you are' in Japanese, a state of being that Lim is celebrating this season, specifically, by dressing his girls in an eclectic mix of neo-Bohemian clothes, complete with the many patches of their well-traveled pasts." [Vogue.com]
  • "Balancing good design with commercial viability is a dance, and the designer did a bang-up job of it this season." [

    WWD]

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Carolina Herrera Designer: Carolina Herrera

  • "New York may be shivering in the snow and icy rain, but Carolina Herrera's fur-lined autumn-winter 2013 collection brought elegant warmth to Fashion Week." [AFP]
  • "Fur was a constant theme, even small bits of it. Whatever you're wearing, the designer seemed to be saying, even if it's not a coat or a jacket, there's a spot for some luxurious fur." [AP]
  • "Describing her designs Ms Herrera, 74, states on the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week website: 'I have a responsibility to the woman of today--to make her feel confident, modern and above all else beautiful.' Indeed her fall ready-to-wear collection is made up of feminine and classic designs, from fur-trimmed trench coats, to ethereal floor-length gowns." [

    The Daily Mail]

  • "The Carolina Herrera show was elegant, refined and not at all over-the-top operatic--even if lush panels of fur in jeweled colors dressed up narrow tailored outfits and slender gowns." [International Herald Tribune]
  • "Carolina Herrera’s collection was also strong, though perhaps more predictable in its uptown tailoring and earth-tone tweeds and café-au-lait silks." [The New York Times]
  • "Fur stole the show at Carolina Herrera's fashion show on Monday--fur in eye-catching hues and unusual places." [Reuters]
  • "Let the little guys fuss over pop hits and designer DJs. Herrera required the full symphonic talents of the London Contemporary Orchestra." [Style.com]
  • "This season, Herrera’s clothes have that same cinematic quality--if one thinks of the damn-the-expense extravaganzas that great Hollywood studio costumers such as Adrian and Travis Banton dreamt up for stars like Garbo, Crawford, and Dietrich." [Vogue.com]
  • "With hints of a Forties heroine in mind, Carolina Herrera designed a collection about glamour and gumption. These were clothes deserving of a woman who thinks nothing of commissioning her own original score, as Herrera did." [WWD]

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Theyskens’ Theory Designer: Olivier Theyskens

  • "How would we dress in this sort-of realistic future world? In his collection for Theory, Theyskens presented roomy, boxy clothes (we'd be comfortable there, that's for sure)." [AP]
  • "Olivier Theyskens delivered another minimalist-cool Theyskens' Theory Fall '13 lineup, and with it, came a fresh batch of ultratailored blazers, slouchy knitwear, menswear-inspired trousers, and slick leather accessories." [FabSugar]
  • "Like the faux marble, Olivier Theyskens’s designs for Theory are much lighter than they appear." [On The Runway/

    The New York Times]

  • "When you get right down to it, pieces like those aren't so much futuristic as they are classics, with little Theyskens twists." [Style.com]
  • "After a quick scan of the New York runways, predictions for what’s to be slotted into our wardrobes where fall is concerned are relatively dark in a slick, sensual, leathery sense; the perfect environment for a Theyskens’ Theory collection to thrive in ... or so you’d think. But leave it to Olivier Theyskens, a designer who’s always sung to his own tune, to invert that expected gritty perspective to some extent this season." [Vogue.com]
  • "Preshow, Olivier Theyskens pointed to 'notions of futurism' as his design impetus for fall, stressing that, 'It was very important for me that it doesn’t look utopian, but a more realistic version.' It was a great starting point, and he translated it with much appeal, from strong shoulders on tailored pieces to plays on proportion via several voluminous minidresses." [WWD]

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Thom Browne Designer: Thom Browne

  • "No one has to worry that Browne is going mainstream. ... As soon as guests walked into a Chelsea loft, they knew they were seeing something unusual: Blindfolded male models with their hands and feet tied in blood-red strips of fabric lay on metal beds alongside the catwalk. Scattered around the scene were full-size evergreen trees and faux snow, and the music sounded as if it were being played in a haunted cathedral. And when the guests were leaving, they were buzzing that they’d seen the show closest to couture that New York has offered in many years." [AP]
  • "While not exactly ready for stepping straight off the runway and onto Pennsylvania Avenue, the clothes demand your full attention--and interpretation." [fashionologie]
  • "Capitalizing on his Michelle Obama inaugural moment, Thom Browne grabbed the spotlight on Monday evening with a grand, jaw-dropping collection that was so ambitious in scale it seemed to be his bid for entrée into the pantheon of great designers." [On The Runway/

    The New York Times]

  • "He delivered with his usual theatrical runway presentation that showed off his construction skills with over-the top creations, which, while costumey to the nth degree, were at once romantic and slightly disturbing. ... e the commercial value was not always clear, the elaborate workmanship was impressive for what’s emerging as something of a Thom Browne moment." [WWD]

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The Row Designers: Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen

  • "There was nothing revolutionary on offer--but that's just the point. Why scream, when you can whisper and still be heard with such resounding clarity." [Grazia Daily]
  • "These liberated shapes, with a big, sloppy fisherman knit sweater and tunics with wide trousers, reminded us why we first noticed the Olsens’ style." [

    The New York Times]

  • "'Without it being easy, we wanted it to be easy,' Mary-Kate said afterward. A koan for the ages, but when you got to thinking about it, she summed up this collection's considerable appeal perfectly." [Style.com]
  • "It’s almost becoming ridiculous. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen so consistently show some of the chicest, most to-die-for clothes season after season that you can’t help but think there’s no way such a streak could continue. And then you get presentations like the one this morning at the exquisite Beaux Arts limestone mansion on New York’s Upper East Side and sense it the moment you step into the perfectly decorated and attentively staffed foyer: another home run." [Vogue.com]
  • "Once again, exquisite. The fact that Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, who have embodied 'cool' at least since early adolescence, don’t aspire to said classification as fashion designers sets them apart from many of their contemporaries working today." [WWD]