Since debuting his collection for Theory in Spring 2011, Olivier Theyskens has had New York downtown cool girls under his thumb. There’s been a subtle change the past few seasons, though. The Theyskens’ girl is still cool-to-the-core, but unlike her younger, edgier counterpart, she’s also a career woman.
Theyskens’ Fall 2013 collection was chockful of pieces that would make a statement in the boardroom as well as the club–depending on the the wearer and the styling (though we wouldn’t exactly recommend wearing the suits sans shirts as in the show).
The first look, a sharply tailored blazer and leather shorts combo, set the silhouette for the show, which was short on the bottom and covered up on top. For a fall show, there weren’t too many pants looks, though Theyskens nodded to weather appropriate practicality by pairing the shorts and skirts with tall leather boots. When pants were shown, they were loose, layered and ever so slightly menswear inspired. It was power suiting for the modern woman. Everything was perfectly tailored, whether it was a slouchy sweater that hung just-so, or a structured shift dress.
Theyskens always has a lot of fun playing with textures, and this season that proclivity for experimentation could be seen in the shiny trashbag black pants paired with a nubby shell top, the super slick shorts and skirts (with slouchy sweaters), and the quilted fabric in the dresses and skirts. The textures and the craftmanship stood out all the more thanks to the collection’s neutral palette of grey, white, and black.
If there weren’t as many ‘it’ pieces as in seasons past, Theyskens made up for it (and then some) with garments that women will actually want to wear–and keep.