“It was time,” Trina Turk told me of her inaugural decision to show at New York Fashion Week. And with that, the Trina Turk brand signified that it was ready to grow up a little bit, extending its California vision in a more sophisticated and elevated direction.
“Our theme is ‘California modern,’ so we wanted to take a more rich and sophisticated approach to representing California,” she said. The modern feel was still there, with clean, strong, lean silhouettes like stovepipe trousers, column dresses, and double-lapel overcoats. But fans expecting to see her signature graphic prints and easy, zip-up-and-go shift dresses may be a little surprised, although not unpleasantly. They’ll be happy with the chevron and a great, jewel toned, happy stripe pant that was an instant Instagram favorite. And they’d take a second but satisfied look at the dimension added with texture and layer play, with materials like houndstooth and tweed, and a curly lamb vest thrown over a zig-zag printed blazer and trouser combo.
The only real shock to Turk’s existing client base might be the dearth of short, casual dresses. Really cool wide-brimmed fedoras (a mixture of vintage and David Steele for Albrizio) on the heads of each model added a little 70s, wife-of-a-rocker vibe, without any of the bohemian sloppiness. All in all, Trina Turk customers won’t be deterred by the new collection, but should be interested to see where it goes.