In the last few seasons it seems that Victoria Beckham has been cautiously, slowly, distancing her collection from her the body-con red carpet dresses she’s become known for. Last season she showed a few looser separates. And for fall 2013, voluminous looks far outweighed the body skimming ones.
“Combining enhanced volumes with new restrained outlines has allowed me to push my silhouette even further,” Victoria Beckham posted to her Facebook page, barely an hour after her show. “For me, it is the application of a refined quality within a mannish modernity that has proved to be such an exciting part of the design process this season.”
The designer embraced her British roots with a nod to Savile Row. She used fabrics from men’s suiting like tweed, plaid and herringbone, and the first look out–a roomy plaid grey dress coat with slim lapels–was undeniably menswear inspired and pretty great. (When a slimmer version of that long coat appeared on the runway with white leather lapels it looked a bit Céline-y.) Drop waist color-blocked mini-dresses looked cute and comfortable. These more relaxed silhouettes and the combination of prints and colors used (deep indigos, lemony yellows, tans) made this one of my favorite Victoria Beckham collections yet. Without the skin-tight dresses, it seemed more accessible. Like clothes you could actually eat dinner in.
Of course, Beckham didn’t forsake her signature silhouette entirely. Every Victoria Beckham show must have a tight cocktail dress. And this season it’s subdued. It’s a below-the-knee pencil skirt, belted, with a loose high-neck blouse that’s slashed down the middle. Gotta add that sex appeal somewhere.