At this season’s Y-3 show, avant-garde Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto continued the theme from last season’s tenth anniversary show–“walking backwards into the future.”

This meant an exploration of classic Y-3 motifs in futuristic form, like long, voluminous shorts with slyly placed triple stripes for men, slim-cut trousers with detachable PVC kilts for women, and transparent raincoats with fluorescent apricot touches for both sexes. There was a subtle playfulness to the presentation; at one point, a triad of red haired models walked down the fog-filled runway to Ruth Brown’s “I Don’t Know” in matching red-orange-punctuated black looks. The color scheme had a very not-to-be-taken-too-seriously, ’90s-cool feel (think lots of neons).

The collection, despite finding synthesis in exaggerated proportions and a clever avant-active attitude, was a little all over the place. There were sophisticated, ruffled capes, acid green board shorts fit for a ride down Bend, and crazy bright, techy looks apt to be adopted by the children of Ryan Trecartin. Still, the looks were smart–we wouldn’t be surprised to see all of these groups, and maybe show-attendee ASAP Rocky, sporting these pieces come fall.

Photos: IMAXtree