Israeli designer Yigal Azrouël has always been known for his highly wearable, if not highly directional, apparel. Last season’s spring collection represented a slight departure, with tent-like dress silhouettes and some interesting (if questionable) white hooded pieces that spoke less to the buyer, and more from an abstract space rooted in the gracefully conceptual.
Today’s show was a continuation of this ambitious shift with lots of architectural, oversized shapes (a deep maroon, collarless cocoon cloak was particularly lusted after) and strongly structured suits (the loose, ankle-tapered trousers were a highlight). Azrouël said that the inspiration was the energy of ghosts and the allure of the fantastical. And while this may only be apparent in the collection’s cool color palette (“mystic blue, orchid and forest green”), the vibe of the show was certainly sexy-eerie. Floor-length single sleeve lambskin gowns (with some rather high slits) and soft fur stoles brought magnetic appeal. The standout was the outerwear. The aforementioned cashmere cloak, an incredible wool parka with a coyote shearling hood, and a very Celine-esque boxy overcoat will certainly find room in many closets come fall.