Gaytten is, in many ways, the polar opposite of Galliano: pleasant, quietly charming, a commercial success. And he will never be a loud showman who appears dressed up a pirate at the end of shows.
Gaytten makes nice clothes. They’re wearable, chic, fit pleasantly in a life you wish you had. His fall 2013 collection was no exception: there was no loud revolution but a trim, concise, collection in blues and blacks–and oversized hats (Stephen Jones bien sur).
Tapered trousers and belted jackets with a recurring flounce embellishment at the hip set the tone. This was followed by oversized culottes and matching jackets in delicate printed silks or on the contrary, heavy loden-like wools. The show feminized the current taste for angular boxiness by adding a rigid inbuilt belt, for a hint of military rigor. The collection evolved into plenty of pleats, folds and audacious volumes–as if Bill Gaytten was testing the waters for bolder experimentations to come.
Slowly but surely, he is marking his territory–which is not easy when the person you are standing in for has just been stripped if his legion d’honneur. One thing is for sure, his woman is whole lot more empowered than Galliano’s.