Marc Jacobs has been wearing pajamas all season. He was wearing a cotton pair by Comme des Garçons after Marc by Marc, a silk pair by Prada after the Marc Jacobs collection show. And today, when he emerged after Louis Vuitton, he was wearing a bright floral set.
“What is the most decadent thing anybody could ever do? Get all dressed up, do their make up, and stay at home,” Jacobs told Andre Leon Talley earlier this month.
Indeed, for Marc Jacobs, it’s all about bedroom dressing. He started his fall 2013 journey at a glam rock pajama party and ended it in a boudoir. Jacobs’s sepia-hued New York collection began with satin pajama jobs and high-waisted bloomers. His Louis Vuitton effort, showing on Wednesday in Paris, closed with sheer playsuits, floral housecoats, and Kate Moss in an elegant, body-hugging slip. The only thing missing was a post-coital cigarette.
But let’s back up for a moment and consider the set. Jacobs’s models were guests of the Hotel Louis Vuitton—yes, LV constructed a replica of an actual hotel inside the Cour Carrée du Louvre, complete with cherry wood doors and damask wallpaper-covered walls—and they emerged from each room to circle around the runway. While the shaggy wigs, vintage-y fur coats, and Speedys covered in marabou were more than enough for the eye to take in, curious audience members also got a glimpse inside each room, which featured a bedroom stand and a black-and-white film projected on the wall, showing an actor or actress in a bedroom scene.
While Moss’s presence surely got the room buzzing, she wasn’t the center of it all like at Louis Vuitton’s Fall 2011 fetish show. A lot of that had to do with the subtle specialness of this particular collection. While it may not win the cover wars, the attention to slips—dresses, skirts, even a few playsuits—will certainly influence what people are wearing on the street. In a way, it was very ’90s, and totally the opposite of what Marc Jacobs did in that era, and what Hedi Slimane is revisiting now.