Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2013: Just Subversive Enough

Margiela is a brand that was once known only to its cult followers: a select group of in-the-know, avant-garde fashion devotees. Now, thanks to an H&M collaboration and Kanye West's undying support (that crystal mask he's been performing in lately? Margiela obvi) the designer-less brand has the attention of the masses, if not mass appeal. But yesterday's fall collection had a bit of that, too.
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Leah Chernikoff
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Margiela is a brand that was once known only to its cult followers: a select group of in-the-know, avant-garde fashion devotees. Now, thanks to an H&M collaboration and Kanye West's undying support (that crystal mask he's been performing in lately? Margiela obvi) the designer-less brand has the attention of the masses, if not mass appeal. But yesterday's fall collection had a bit of that, too.
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Margiela is a brand that was once known only to its cult followers: a select group of in-the-know, avant-garde fashion devotees. Now, thanks to an H&M collaboration and Kanye West's undying support (that crystal mask he's been performing in lately? Margiela obvi) the designer-less brand has the attention of the masses, if not mass appeal.

But yesterday's fall collection had a bit of that, too. There were great boxy coats and jackets mixed in with the exaggerated menswear (pinstriped suit jackets had elongated sleeves, pants were baggy and so long they dusted the floor even on high-heeled leggy models). Delicately embroidered sheer tops prettied up masculine looks.

The fun part was looking for all those classic Margiela tricks and subversions. Jackets had a strap at the back which doubled as a hair elastic. It looked pretty cool even if it's just for show. And the shoes got meta: chunky lucite heels had a stiletto inside.

Photos: IMAXtree