Rick Owens knows how to build anticipation. The lights lowered to signal the start of his fall 2013 show and then–woosh–a wall of smoke came shooting out from stage left. Wagner blared through the severe cement venue at the Palais Omnisports De Bercy. Then–poof!–out came the models. And I do mean “poof” because their hair was styled into the fluffiest, frizziest puff balls. The smoke and wind blew the models’ hair over their eyes but they never broke character and brushed it out of their faces. They were stone faced and severe through and through.
And it was a good thing too, because Owens’s clothes demand that kind of respect. All that fluffy hair offset the stark black and white collection full of covetable structured jackets and long coats–Owens’s specialty. Some of the coats had shearling lined hoods that were split down the back to create these sculptural protrusions around the shoulders that reminded me of cornettes. Owens even made a typically twee toggle coat look grown-up and badass.
There was a Japanese influence that was unmistakable in a series of kimono jackets which were studded with oversized stitches. It was the only kind of print or pattern to break up the blackness and it did so to great effect.