For his runway debut, newly appointed Sonia Rykiel artistic director Geraldo da Conceicao made sure to make his presence known. While classic Rykiel was represented—knitted jackets in her signature purple, flouncy flamenco dresses in an easy black matte jersey, a series of kooky sweaters—there was plenty of new, too.
Conceicao spent time at Miu Miu, and Mrs. Prada’s influence is evident in his sexy-ugly stylings. (Although Prada’s approach is wayyy more subtle.) A black mini dress, for instance, was adorned with a fuzzy strip of fabric laid across the nipples, and an inverted triangle between the hips, mimicking a censored nude photograph. Sheer knee-high socks were adorned with the words “hot,” “joie,” “play,” and “amour.” Skimpy sweats were re-imagined in bubblegum pink mohair.
Someone asked me at dinner afterwards whether the show was “like Betsey Johnson,” in that it was more about the theatrics than the clothes. My answer was a considered no. While Conceicao surely wants to get people’s attention, it’s not a joke–at least not to him. It’ll be interesting to see what he does next.