Sometimes less is more, as evidenced by Oscar de la Renta‘s scaled-back Resort 2014 collection, and dialed-down presentation. (De la Renta has, in recent years, produced one of the most lavish Resort shows in New York, but this season opted to give small groups of editors and buyers a by-appointment-only peek at an edited 27-look assortment.)
This tight story began with a day capsule that played with traditional and experimental check-fabrics alike. Classic houndstooth and Prince of Wales versions were cut in a draped ’50s day dress and cinnabar tipped boxy jacket. In contrast, floral motifs enlivened Glen plaids in coordinated two-piece dressing ensembles, while lace appliqued ginghams moved artful peplum silhouettes forward. This game of checkers was not dissimilar to the one proposed by Raf Simons at Dior within his Pre-Fall and Fall 2013 presentations, but the de la Renta camp’s take was notably sweeter.
Proportion-wise, day skirts and dresses hovered around the knee, but the collection’s “after 7″ assortment played host to a spectrum of length options. Those now classic “Oscar” tulle cocktail confections were out to play, flirting with even more sheerness than usual (the society set that’s so fond of de la Renta’s frocks will certainly be spared no Pilates appointments come the holidays). This season’s “sugar-plum fairy” numbers were given a run for their money by trumpet-hemmed, floor-length show stoppers cut in crisp, tailorable silks. These fabrics were captivating in a muted cobalt blue that made uptown silk as cool as downtown denim; it’s a color that we certainly will be keeping an eye on throughout the rest of the resort season.