Damir Doma, Pitti W’s guest designer, wanted to do something a bit different for resort 2014. Doma, best-known for his dark and edgy menswear, presented softer and more colorful womenswear–a change, he said, motivated by the show’s whereabouts.
“I think some of the mood of the collection came out of the location,” Doma told us after the show, which was held in the stately gardens of Giardino Corsini in Florence. “When I first saw it, I mean, it immediately puts you in a certain kind of mood and I thought, okay we need something that kind of breaks this classic idea of the location.”
The gardens, sprinkled with lemon trees and classic Italian sculptures, provided the perfect backdrop for the modern, yet subtle collection. “There was an injection of a lot of new ideas,” Doma said. Graphic opening looks–like a black, white, and gray dress, cut through with royal purple–soon gave way to all-white ensembles, including Doma’s signature asymmetric skirts and architectural jacket. Many of the garments played with transparencies and cutouts, revealing a hint of torso here or a trace of underthings there (as in the case of a bright orange bodysuit visible underneath a striped sheer dress). The fitted crop tops, with zippers running suggestively down the center, were ripe for summer.
“There was a lot more femininity, especially in comparison to last season,” Doma remarked–almost inevitable, given his previous collection was inspired by drab office workers. “I think that to do Pitti is always a special occasion,” he continued. “It’s out of your regular scope and out of your regular tempo, so it throws you off a little bit, which is a good thing.”
Stepping outside of his comfort zone certainly worked in Doma’s favor. One of the standout looks was a black-and-white shirt and matching skirt, made out of what appeared to be shiny nylon. I heard the name “Haider Ackermann” whispered a few times in the front row, and, indeed, the jumpsuits seemed to be somewhat Ackermann-influenced–which is never a bad thing in my book.
Though Doma, who was born in Croatia and raised in Germany, has his own point of view. “There’s always this confusion, like, what are your roots?” Doma said of his splintered background. “I think this is something that reflects in my work, that I’m able to take things from different periods and places and put them together and give them a new output.”
Photos: Pitti Immagine