15 Labels to Watch at New York Fashion Week

The 15 emerging labels you need to know for Spring 2014.
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The 15 emerging labels you need to know for Spring 2014.
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If the researching our fourth-annual Fashionista 15—the definitive list of labels to watch—has taught us anything, it's that there is a lot of new talent out there. So to help you figure out who to pay attention to during the NYFW Spring 2014 shows, we've highlighted our favorite up-and-comers. Who are you following? Let us know in the comments.

Adeam Resort 2014

Adeam Resort 2014

Adeam Japanese-born, New York City-bread Hanako Maeda is a second-generation designer--according to ELLE, her parents are behind the popular Japanese ready-to-wear line Foxey. The Columbia-educated young designer (she's just 25) launched her own label in 2011. Maeda works in trendy sillhouttes—button-up collar schoolgirl dresses, cropped biker jackets—but the sharp-shoulder detailing gives the collection a darker, almost sci-fi edge. It reminds me a little bit of what Phi, the short-lived label designed by current Diesel Black Gold creative director Andreas Melbostad, might have become had it been able to live on. And that's a good thing. —Lauren Sherman

Tome Fall 2013

Tome Fall 2013

Tome Launched in 2010 by fashion industry vets Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin, Tome might be the most exciting collection at New York Fashion Week this season. That's because the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists' Fall 2013 collection of just-slightly '70s-inspired separates are the kind of clothes women actually want to wear. Which is harder to accomplish than one would expect. —Lauren Sherman

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Edun The LVMH-backed, Bono and Ali Hewson project isn't new, but there is a new designer on board. Former T by Alexander Wang design director Danielle Sherman is sure to shake up the aesthetic, which has lacked focus in the past. —Lauren Sherman

Lee Savage Spring 2014

Lee Savage Spring 2014

Lee Savage The New York-based accessories designer, whose background is in interiors, creates stunning brass clutches lined in leather. Each piece is handmade in Italy and truly looks like nothing I've seen before—which is pretty difficult to accomplish. —Lauren Sherman

Delpozo Fall 2013

Delpozo Fall 2013

Delpozo Founded by Spanish designer Jesús del Pozo in 1974, Delpozo was relaunched in the beginning of 2012 after the passing of its namesake designer. New creative director Josep Font brought the collection to New York Fashion Week, and now his sculptural, couture-inspired designs in quirky colors are a favorite amongst the Moda Operandi crowd. —Lauren Sherman

Rosie Assoulin Resort 2014

Rosie Assoulin Resort 2014

Rosie Assoulin The newcomer's first collection received plenty of press, thanks in part to friends in high places (Man Repeller Leandra Medine is a close bud) and a decidedly stellar collection. Assoulin's ability to make oversize, sculptural pieces just a little bit sexy is refreshing—and sure to be loved by glamorous tomboys of the Lauren Hutton variety. —Lauren Sherman

Rihanna x River Island Fall 2013

Rihanna x River Island Fall 2013

Adam Selman Rihanna's stylist/costume designer will debut his first ever collection on September 5. Selman is the man behind the singer's divisive River Island line, so it'll be interesting to see what he cooks up. —Lauren Sherman

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Holly Fowler Holly Fowler is a young London-based Central St. Martins grad set to show in New York at The White Space, a new showspace for young designers put together by a former Browns buyer. Fowler specializes in elegant, hand-painted wares and currently has an exclusive collection for sale at Bergdorf's in New York. -Dhani Mau

BFA

BFA

Hood by Air Though it was technically founded in 2006, New York-based "luxury streetwear" label Hood by Air has expanded its profile significantly over the past year, having found fans in Drake, Kanye West, and A$AP Rocky, who actually walked in the label's last runway show. Sold in stores like Opening Ceremony and Colette, this is one undeniably "cool" label whose NYFW show is likely to impress with its equally cool audience, at the very least. -Dhani Mau

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ØDD This new New York-based line--the in-house label of a LES retailer of the same name--also made a splash last fashion week with its mostly black, directional, gender-amiguous wares. If you're looking for a show that breaks the New York Fashion Week mold, this will likely be it. -Dhani Mau

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Kye

Last season, Kye presented its fall 2013 collection at Concept Korea, a showcase of emerging Korean design talent that takes place every season. This time around, designer Kathleen Kye will go it alone, showing her sexy, athletic, streetwear-infused collection at the Highline. Buyers for her perennially cool stockists--Opening Ceremony and Oak--will likely be in attendance. -Dhani Mau

BFA

BFA

Novis

Those seeking a break from too-cool-for-school designers can find ladylike solace in Novis. Designer Jordana Warmflash, known for her elegant special occasion frocks, debuted a clean, whimsical line last season that left us wanting more--in a good way. It's clear that her focus is on classic, well-tailored garments that ladies will want to wear, so don't expect her to stray from that, regardless of what the trend is for any given season. -Dhani Mau

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Harbison

Charles Harbison presented his debut collection last season and his potential was pretty immediately clear. Harbison was dead on with some of the most important fall trends--plaid, fur, baseball caps--with some unexpected touches, like menswear-inpsired trousers and unusual buttons. His first collection was interesting, but we could see the second one being much more. -Dhani Mau

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Koonhor

Based in Milan and conceived by designers from Singapore and Indonesia, Koonhor was selected by Vogue Italia as a designer to watch back in 2012. While craftsmanship and attention to detail are pillars of the brand, it's not locked down to a singular aesthetic, which is why it will be interesting to see what they come up with for spring. If the amazing jackets from fall are any indication, it could be really good. -Dhani Mau

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Mathieu Mirano

Mathieu Mirano has been around for a couple of seasons now, but he's recently started dressing Lady Gaga, which means all eyes will be on him this week. Not that he doesn't deserve it--his refined, well-tailored, sophisticated wares have already been on the industry's radar and this next collection, if it's good, could take him to the next level. -Dhani Mau