Adeam Spring 2014: Gloom Without Doom

One of our Fashionista 15 designers to watch, Adeam designer Hanako Maeda, fresh from the challenge of dressing Lady Gaga, explored more of her idea
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One of our Fashionista 15 designers to watch, Adeam designer Hanako Maeda, fresh from the challenge of dressing Lady Gaga, explored more of her idea
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One of our Fashionista 15 designers to watch, Adeam designer Hanako Maeda, fresh from the challenge of dressing Lady Gaga, explored more of her idea of tomboy cool, inspired by Tokyo’s gloomy beautiful hydrangea season.

Looking past the cheery bloom of cherry blossom season, Maeda (Adeam is her last name spelled backwards,) looked to the early summer rainy season called “Tsuyu,” and the somberness of hydrangeas against the gloomy rain as inspiration. These hydrangeas were the source of her prints, which looked like ashy tie-dyes, but were in fact, a blow-up of hydrangea cells. “I actually took scientific pictures of the cells of the hydrangea and did a watercolor wash on top of it," she told me.

Maeda likes to take a bit of a measured approach to her work, as evidenced by the story of her print, and the purposefulness with which she explored the dichotomies of masculine and feminine in her looks. Nothing looked overtly girly or masculine, inhabiting that happy space of tomboy cool, thanks to her interplay of opaque and transparent fabrics. A blush pink organza dress that could have been too sweet, played with layers of opaque and sheer organza. Another not-frilly organza dress had a triangle intercut of perforated leather in the bodice.

The collection was supremely wearable, designed for girls that like an extra bit of something different, whether it be an athletic-cut sexy crop top or a midnight blue abbreviated sweatshirt-trouser set that looked crisp and fresh. Other wearable pieces included boxy, knee length shorts, just a few inches short of knee, and collared shirts, with crisp collars, but flowy bodies, intercut with opaque leather, sheer fabrics, and perforated pieces. A continued contemporary designer to watch.

Photos: Getty