With their Marceled hair, nostalgically demure skirts, and stripes plucked from the shores of Deauville, the parade of Jazz Babies at Herchcovitch’s spring 2014 show could have Charleston’d right off the runway into a Thoroughly Modern incarnation of one of J. Gatsby’s mythical soirees. They were a sultry lot, but their sexy simmered just beneath the surface of modest proportions through the occasional thin cut-out or sheer fabric.
In addition to dresses, Herchcovitch showed matchy sets with coordinated jackets or light-weight outerwear complements, suspended on the models’ shoulders in a way that at once felt like an evolution of the editor’s cape styling trend, and potentially an homage to Helmut Lang’s harnessed anoraks from the late ’90s.
The collection’s palette was restrained, save for a brooding, purple moire glaze seen in three looks. Herchcovitch has been dabbling in this metallic fare of late, and has also been quite fond of the zipper-detailing he used to add modern edge to this retro assortment.
The result was a more grown-up story, but one that won’t leave fans of this designer’s rule-breaking spirit without their experimental fix.