AllSaints Spring 2014: Of Reversal and Rebirth

AllSaints has never shown during fashion week before, but creative director Wil Beedle was ready to move things to this next level.
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AllSaints has never shown during fashion week before, but creative director Wil Beedle was ready to move things to this next level.
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AllSaints has never shown during fashion week before, but creative director Wil Beedle was ready to move things to this next level.

"We thought it was the right time in the brand's evolution and momentum to engage the global audience with our collections and our culture--every element of it," Beedle explains. "And above all, our clothes--which have evolved in attitude, material, cut, silhouette, and the creation of footwear."

The presentation was set up in an amazing, raw loft space in SoHo (that I was told would tragically be gutted soon). Over the course of two days, the brand used the space to create all its content, from its look book to live video-editing of "Below the Knee," a video highlighting its new footwear line.

The spring collection is filled with AllSaints staples--tough leather, loads of black--but accented with new pieces. Beedle used red sparingly, as well as layering in black chiffons and laces to soften the lines. The footwear, by the way, is constructed by hand in the south of Italy by the same craftsmen who handle Prada and Alaia. Of course, this is AllSaints, so the black booties and flats were "pierced" with silver rings.

The whole collection centered around a theme of "Flora Mortis"--when you walked into the space, there was an enormous floral arrangement mirrored on the other end of the room by an arrangement left two weeks to die. (An artist was on hand to sketch the dead arrangement for a limited edition tee that will be available in AllSaints stores, so keep your eyes peeled for that next spring.)

"I wanted to reverse the typical iconography of decay to express a message of hope and regeneration, of positivity and rebirth, and the reversal of that momentum," Beedle says of the idea. "It's a new beginning."

Photos: Courtesy