If Kering (formerly PPR) had any doubts about investing in Altuzarra (the luxury conglomerate took a minority stake in Joseph Altuzarra’s five year-old brand earlier this week), last night’s show surely put the suits at ease.
Joseph Altuzarra delivered a masterful spring collection, drawing on elements from seasons past–sexy slits up to there, twists on menswear, an emphasis on tailoring, fringe details–to solidify the Altuzarra look. In contrast to last season’s rather severe sexed-up offerings (remember all that shiny black vinyl?), this collection was a bit looser, more undone. (In the case of the first two looks–striped silk men’s button-downs tucked into pencil skirts–the look was literally undone; not a button was buttoned.) The hip-high-slit skirts looked like they had been untied–bits of string hung from either side, a reference, according to WWD, to “Boro” the traditional Japanese technique of repairing and reworking textiles. Though the looks were bodycon, there was an ease to the way slippery silk skirts hugged the body, the way menswear-style shirting hung loose and un-starched, the way cozy layered knits curved up over hip bones.
Even the eveningwear felt relaxed: A liquid gold skirt was paired with a tight thermal. The lesson taught by this French-Chinese American designer? If you want to ooze sexy, don’t try too hard.
And another thing: If you weren’t feeling so self-assured as to don one of these close to the body numbers, try a poncho. Altuzarra put sailor stripes on his version, which is sure to be draped over many an editor’s lithe shoulders come spring.