As usual, it was an early start in a tricky location for Antonio Berardi this morning. The glass skyscraper in London’s financial district made for a great view behind the catwalk, but at 9am on a Monday morning, it was a veritable traffic nightmare.
Although the audience arrived in a grump, the clothes more than made up for the inconvenience. The show notes told us to expect “a more laissez-faire attitude” than previous seasons. This was quite a surprise from the man who’s best known for his tiny, form-fitting dresses, who showed three-foot-long crystal trains on capes last season.
But of course, relaxed in Antonio Berardi’s terms is still ultimate luxury–he wouldn’t stray far from evening gowns, sharp tailoring, and crystal embellishment. His take on a sweatshirt was sheer silk-chiffon, and track pants were tight-fitting satin trousers with a side stripe. A two-toned red and pink gown was paneled into a novel-take on the varsity trend, and all eyes were on the oversized cocoon biker jackets. Another audience favorite was the bubbled crocodile-textured top and matching skirt worked in sugary pink (a color we’ve seen at nearly every London show so far).
And Berardi’s formalwear was beautiful as ever, especially the long skirts with flowing cape hems in colorful lace or white leopard print.
Gauging by the elevator chatter as we exited, the collection will be hailed as one of the best and most talked-about this London Fashion Week.