Former Kenzo creative director Antonia Marras really brought us into his world for spring 2014.
The word whimsical barely begins to describe the scene. First off, there were people in full makeup and costume playing string instruments at the entrance, surrounded by shrubbery. They looked like they could have been plucked from an A Midsummer Night’s Dream cast, having been made up to look somewhere between human and animal.
Waitresses in old-fashioned maid uniforms moved through the intimate venue carrying drinks and the prettiest cookies I’d ever seen.
We felt like we’d entered some sort of alternate fairy universe (anyone watch True Blood anymore?), and the models fit right in as they weaved through the space in nature-inspired looks with wreaths around their hair.
Garden landscapes covered flirty, romantic silk dresses. A languid tiered dress was particularly stunning, as was a matching long dress and coat with an amazing sky and river landscape. The same print also looked cool on a more tomboyish boxy collared shirt and matching skirt. What followed were a few more delicate but equally pretty icy blue lace dresses, followed by a series of bolder looks with loads of flower and leaf embroidery and appliqués, as well as prints that appeared hand-drawn, which we weren’t as impressed by, though they fit in well with the show’s backdrop.
A few of those looks felt a bit too busy and crafty–one unfortunately timed blouse even featured a woman’s face on it (Prada did it better)–but Marras mixed in a few outerwear pieces that were just indisputably great. That sleek pink patent leather knee-length number? Need.
In a lot of ways this show reminded us of our own Creatures of the Wind. They’re both into mythology and like to tell a story with their collections. However Marras has that inherent Italian romantic side and flare for drama, which we can’t help but like.