This year marks Francisco Costa’s 10th year as creative director of Calvin Klein Collection. It’s a big milestone so there’s bound to be more attention focused on this spring 2014 collection.
Of course, he delivered.
There was a focus on texture–canvas, sheer nylon, tweed, micro-pleats, snake skin, leather, shredded threads and fine fringe–that Costa used to create sculptural elements on otherwise simple silhouettes. He layered these different textures in horizontal bands across the body–models were bandaged up but not too tight. Costa let the fabrics and textures speak for themselves and it lent the collection a raw feel. The first look out, a double-faced cream-colored canvas wrap tank top and wrap skirt had raw edges and flaps along one side that gave the look an unfinished but obviously finished quality. The final evening looks were made up of fine strips of fringe (they were “threaded” according to the show notes). The look was like the thing that happens when you pull your stocking or yank on a thread you weren’t supposed to yank on–again, a raw sort of look. But oh, how it moved on the body. Very cool to watch it come down the catwalk on six-foot tall models.
These aren’t looks that just any woman will be bold enough to try. They’re a bit intense. But for the women who packed Costa’s front row–Rooney Mara, Nicole Kidman, Dree Hemingway–they’re perfect.