The first thing you noticed upon walking into 3.1 Phillip Lim’s spring 2014 show was the floor. It was covered in chunky salt crystals, with shiny mylar peeking through occasionally. A perma-cloud of white dust hung over the space, as the audience made their way (carefully, I might add–that stuff was hard to walk on!) to their seats, kicking up the salt crystals. It almost looked like dry ice–or some distant planet’s wasteland. Which is interesting because Lim was inspired by something much closer to home: Geology.
The salt crystals on the floor were the first clue. Then came minimalist frocks, shirts and sweaters, cut through with geode-inspired prints in biomorphic shapes, like the kind you’d find in a rock vein. Coated leather gave the impression of an oil slick on vests and skirts; marble-inspired textiles in pink, white and yellow, adorned pants, and jackets at the end. The necklines and hemlines on some of the tops and frocks followed an imperfect, biomorphic line. Even with the geological influence, the effect was definitely sci-fi–something that was reiterated with the makeup (models’ eyes and cheekbones were dusted with an iridescent purple) and fog machine.
The more statement-making pieces–like the sweatshirt-shaped mesh top with a geode swath, or the pink marbleized pencil skirt–are sure to be a hit with the street style set next season. But the perfectly-tailored, roomy pants, and the form-fitting tops, will find fans among the less adventurous as well.