Helmut Lang Spring 2014: Minimalism with a Twist

When I think Helmut Lang, I immediately think of minimalist, expertly-cut separates. For the past few seasons, designers Nicole and Michael Colovos
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Hayley Phelan
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When I think Helmut Lang, I immediately think of minimalist, expertly-cut separates. For the past few seasons, designers Nicole and Michael Colovos
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When I think Helmut Lang, I immediately think of minimalist, expertly-cut separates. For the past few seasons, designers Nicole and Michael Colovos have strayed slightly from that heritage--well, at least the minimalism part of it.

But for spring 2014, the house's minimalist heritage was finally back on the runway--and stronger than ever. The palette was mostly black and white--allowing the collection's pared down shapes and clean lines to shine. When the Colovos employed color, it was to electrifying effect. The hot pink looks--consisting of layered panels of gauze--were some of my favorites. But even when the palette change was subtle--like with the soft peach shade--it had an impact.

As for the tailoring, it was sharp-meets-slouch perfection. Pants were roomy but not baggy; tops and dresses were structured, yet fluid. It's the kind of tailoring that obviously takes a lot of time, but that gives the impression of being completely unstudied. Everything was easy-breezy, laid-back and looked insanely comfortable. (Which is exactly what I like).

And now let's talk about the shoes, because, to be honest, they might have been my favorite part. Yes, that shower shoe shape is still definitely having a moment and it was on this runway in its most sophisticated, grown-up iteration. They were the perfect counterpoint to the collection's more structured looks; and pairing them with the brand's take on Le Smoking for the finale was downright genius.

Photos: IMAXtree