When I think Helmut Lang, I immediately think of minimalist, expertly-cut separates. For the past few seasons, designers Nicole and Michael Colovos have strayed slightly from that heritage–well, at least the minimalism part of it.
But for spring 2014, the house’s minimalist heritage was finally back on the runway–and stronger than ever. The palette was mostly black and white–allowing the collection’s pared down shapes and clean lines to shine. When the Colovos employed color, it was to electrifying effect. The hot pink looks–consisting of layered panels of gauze–were some of my favorites. But even when the palette change was subtle–like with the soft peach shade–it had an impact.
As for the tailoring, it was sharp-meets-slouch perfection. Pants were roomy but not baggy; tops and dresses were structured, yet fluid. It’s the kind of tailoring that obviously takes a lot of time, but that gives the impression of being completely unstudied. Everything was easy-breezy, laid-back and looked insanely comfortable. (Which is exactly what I like).
And now let’s talk about the shoes, because, to be honest, they might have been my favorite part. Yes, that shower shoe shape is still definitely having a moment and it was on this runway in its most sophisticated, grown-up iteration. They were the perfect counterpoint to the collection’s more structured looks; and pairing them with the brand’s take on Le Smoking for the finale was downright genius.