Although Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco say they looked to anatomy and musculature to inform their designs for Spring 2014, at first glance, the pared-down pieces tell a different story. The offerings were decidedly no-fuss–certainly not like the complex vessel the human body is, and at times skewed a little clinical (in the best of ways). But look a little closer and you’ll notice embossed leather striations, blocked stripe motifs, and mosaic paillettes mimicking the texture of muscles and bone.
The design duo described the woman they had in mind as they were crafting this offering as a “native nomad,” or simply, “a globetrotter.” Someone who moves around so much needs to be in functional fabrics, and Kaufman and Franco are happy to oblige, with sheaths, parachute pants, trenches, and more rendered in burlap, paper leather, linen, and for a dose of luxury, silk.
With the exception of a punch of tangerine and glittering gold, the palette was neutral and inoffensive. Everything had an effortless feel to it, from boxy short and shell separates to billowing gowns revealing peeks of thigh. Indeed, there was skin everywhere and cutouts galore, a source of sex appeal to enliven otherwise modest dresses and add visual interest to a few tube tops. Those who prefer to be more covered, can take their pick of shells, trousers, and a number of trenches in a variety of silhouettes. We were particularly drawn to an optic white knee-length trench and a white criss-cross cutout floor-length gown modeled by Ajak Deng. Of course, we might have to reactivate our gym membership before trying it on for size.