A relative newcomer to the Milan Fashion Week scene, Marco de Vincenzo has been getting lots of buzz recently (Vogue in particular has been giving him attention and Anna Wintour sat in the front row), and with good reason. His expertly tailored, sporty-yet-refined collection was easily one of our favorites this week.
The show opened with Hanne Gaby Odiele in a matching black top and skirt covered in delicate appliqués–the top had a red trim that gave it an athletic look that continued throughout the collection. Tailored vests and jackets had sporty hoods.
From there, fabric construction got more complex and more impressive, but still wearable. A short-sleeve v-neck dress with gorgeous pleating in the front was a highlight, as were dresses and skirts with modern-looking pseudo-peplums at the waist. The prints were gorgeous as well. De Vincenzo stayed away from the florals everyone has been doing this season (instead, alluding to them with appliqués) and did digitally printed ikats, as well as a geometric square print.
The daywear was on point–cool, tasteful, and wearable. But the eveningwear was amazing too. A series of metallic (but not too metallic) macramé cocktail dresses were highlights, but there were great, more subdued options as well, like a simple black slightly metallic leather-trimmed short-sleeved mini wrap dress.
They were the types of clothes you wanted to rip right off the models, but also stare at for hours–both signs of a hit collection and a designer to keep your eye on.
Another sign: The Financial Times‘ Vanessa Friedman pointed out that the CEO of Fendi (owned by LVMH) was in the audience. “Did the conglomerate, which bought young British name Nicholas Kirkwood last week, have its eyes on yet another new label?” she asked. We wouldn’t be surprised.