Mathieu Mirano Spring 2014: Bitchin' Stepmothers

This season, Mathieu Mirano’s girl is a little bitchy. “You see,” he said, pointing out a scarlet python-textured crop bustier and pencil skirt, “like, this is pretty bitchy.”
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This season, Mathieu Mirano’s girl is a little bitchy. “You see,” he said, pointing out a scarlet python-textured crop bustier and pencil skirt, “like, this is pretty bitchy.”
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This season, Mathieu Mirano’s girl is a little bitchy. “You see,” he said, pointing out a scarlet python-textured crop bustier and pencil skirt, “like, this is pretty bitchy.”

In Mirano’s case, bitchiness was exuded with a refined sense of power dressing, tempered by a sense of softness and transparency. Mirano’s woman may be a bitch, but she’s still human. She just doesn’t want everyone to know.

The sense of power was immediate in Mirano’s first few looks, which featured thinly cut leather harnesses (created with best friend, Bliss Lau), criss-crossed over see-through fine mesh tops, and lace pencil skirts. The juxtaposition of the hard and soft elements, as Mirano explained, was a way to show that this collection was all about a “a woman who’s had many different marriages. She really wants to have control. But at the same time, we’re pairing it with something completely see through. It’s her way of protecting herself and showing she’s human.”

This harness/transparency pairing was the editorial interpretation of the idea, but his other pieces required little imagination for how they would translate off the runway. His lace pencil skirts, were rendered in a fine knit that showed the pattern, without adding bulk. You could picture them easily hugging the hips and curves of Mirano’s femme fatale muse as she terrorized the streets.

And for nighttime, Mirano’s woman retained her sense of mystery and mysticism, as he likes to do. His metallics were shiny, but with a patina that looked gilded. She was armored into these metallics, via corset cocktail dresses and bustiers with exposed boning. The showstopper of the collection was a red carpet gown, that would make the wearer look like a enigmatic, golden swan, in a creation of gold feathers, embossed with real rose petals, red as Snow White.

Photos: Getty