For Ohne Titel’s Alexa Adams and Flora Gill, the new season is all about “joyful spring,” as they say in their line notes. The concept isn’t exactly revolutionary. But for two designers more commonly associated with dark and downtown–even as they weave the occasional bubble gum-bright teals and turquoises into their signature, second skin knits–happy-go-lucky may just be fresh.
Their spring 2014 show, with their regular team of art crowd supporters (Shirin Neshat, Cecilia Dean, etc.) sitting front row, brought real levity. Baby blue silk patches added a playful boost to seamless white silk blouses, while ultra-fine striped, aqua and deep blue body-con knit dresses were vibrant and mesmerizing. Mesh-inlaid leather tops with sheer curving cut-outs felt surprisingly delicate. A crop of metallic stripes punctuated organza cut-out evening dresses, giving the collection a bit of a disco edge. Silk halter neck dresses represented a slight move to the new for the designers. The fine-spun knits are still there, but now we find the beginnings of something else, something light.