All eyes were on Oscar de la Renta last season after it became known that he’d been hosting John Galliano at his atelier. Galliano’s influence on de la Renta’s fall collection was immediately obvious: the styling was dark, moody, and romantic.
There had been rumors that Galliano would be back to work with de la Renta on his spring collection. But as soon as the lights went up and the first model (Karlie Kloss) hit the runway, it was clear this collection was pure OLDR. The daytime looks–coat dresses, wool shifts, and sensible pencil skirts–were crisp and black and white, pitch perfect for Oscar’s lady who lunches, but it was the eveningwear that stole the show. Sorbet colored confections trotted down the runway–a short taffeta and tulle petal dress, silk fit and flares, and voluminous ball skirts with still more tulle–each one seem to outdo the one that came before it. As if to emphasize that Galliano’s dark mood had lifted, The Beatles’ “Here Comes the Sun” provided the soundtrack. Oscar’s cheerful mood and cheerier gowns had an immediate effect on weary show-goers. We left for the next show with a little more pep in our step.