At Osklen, designer Oskar Metsavaht personified an exotic salon de joallerie of sorts for Spring ’14, carving colors of Jaipur-esque richness into a menagerie of sunnily relaxed sportswear. He even went so far as to digitally screen cut-and-polished rubies, emeralds and sapphires on slouched pants and a racy little tank-and-shorts combo–a sartorial treasure-chest, figuratively speaking. However, these options read mawkish compared to the cleanliness elsewhere.
The high-mark here was a quintet of sheer-overlaid rompers and mini-dresses. Unveiled in a full rainbow of hues, they looked spot-on for a day spent exploring Rio de Janeiro’s fashionable Leblon or Ipanema neighborhoods. Metsavaht would’ve been better served to avoid the palm-tree motif that surfaced near show’s end–employed in silhouetted noir, it was too literal, too obvious, too a dead-horse beaten. The finale, though–again, with gemstone prints, but this time in smoky diamonds–marked an uptick, transitioning from the daylight’s dazzle to a twilit simmer.