Colored glass wall panels erected throughout the basement venue for Peter Pilotto signaled that we were in for a bright collection.
Starting with mint and seafoam green, the design duo moved gradually through pastel blue and lilac to rainbow clashes and fiery oranges. Bursts of beading created a light ray pattern over soft boucle tweed, before being delicately hatched into tartan.
The cropped jackets of last winter came this time in far more feminine pale yellows, with sloping shoulders and hidden zip details. Orchid-patterned lace dresses lay over stiff crinolines, lending a couture air to even the brightest looks. Skirts were short at the front, longer at the back, and strongly structured, bouncing as the models walked. We saw even more layering of organza over lace, and sheer fabric covering exposed midriffs–both proving to be big trends already this season.
The most awe-inducing skirts and dresses appeared midway through the show: fluffy clouds of pink and purple meshed neatly with black flowers. It was hard to tell if they were constructed from sequins, fur, or cotton wool–a testament to the designers’ innovation with fabric as well as their well-known digital prints. It’s a shame these details don’t translate so well in images, but up close, they were one of the most interesting aspects of the show. The riotous cheering and clapping following the finale look proved we weren’t alone.