After last season’s muted, mostly workwear collection, Richard Nicoll changed his vibe entirely for Spring/Summer. With a late Saturday night time slot, and a gritty parking lot venue, Nicoll seemed to aim for a younger, cooler audience this time around.
The designer described his muse as the “elegant tomboy,” which already signaled a clear departure from Fall’s ladylike, full-skirted suits. Models sported simple makeup, low ponytails, and generally looked like the girl that everybody wants to be–effortlessly sleek and ever-so-cool.
Nicoll’s signature chic tailoring was kept youthful with tiny shorts and little suede flat ankle boots by Manolo Blahnik. Houndstooth was modernized, etched out in sequins on a chiffon top or printed over gauzy jackets, all in varying shades of white. He experimented with textures, too, adding a sheer sleeve to a wool blazer, and painting glittery pinstripes over his beloved shift dresses. The few looks that were bubblegum pink fitted oddly well with the rest of the collection–the Nicolls girl is simply hip enough to pull it off.
In all, it was a seriously covetable collection, one that would almost seem more at home in New York than London, where shows tend to be a little less wearable and a little bit crazier.