Season upon season, Rochas designer Marco Zanini remains incredibly loyal to the house codes. Which is interesting, because Marcel Rochas was known for two things and two things only: two-third length coats and dresses, and putting pockets in skirts.
Yet Zanini, who tends to look to the Mid-Century for inspiration, has no trouble reworking those ideas again and again. This season—his final collection for the house before he leaves to revive Schiaparelli—was about adding sparkle to the equation, and he did so in abundance. A white iridescent house coat was worn with two strands of large crystal beads, while a sheer open-collar blouse in seafoam green was studded with colorful, chunky sequins. A V-neck, short-sleeve gown—which hit right above the ankle and was seamed to give it a shapely silhouette—was dotted those same sequins.
Zanini complemented all that glitter with equally decadent slippers. The first model wore a pair adorned with pink ostrich feathers that swept the floor.
That might sound like a lot of embellishment, but the ease of Zanini’s silhouettes kept it all grounded. As mentioned, Zanini likes to go for that 2/3-length and keep his skirts loose, often bearing the signature pockets. (And while the slippers might be fancy, they’re still flats.)
Lucky for Italian designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Rochas’ new top designer, Zanini has taken the house to a good place. It’ll be fascinating to watch how he approaches the revival of Schiaparelli.