The generous front row gift at Roksanda Ilincic today was a colorful set of Sennheiser headphones, a fitting match for an incredibly cool collection. The designer has really elevated her skills in the last couple of seasons, and today’s stellar show firmly cemented her status as one of London’s best designers, alongside her peers Christopher Kane and Erdem.
At the top of yet another financial district skyscraper, Ilincic presented what will surely be regarded as her best collection to date. It began in a series of yellows and greys, neoprenes and silks, with pleated dresses over slim trousers, under oversized bomber-biker hybrid jackets. Ilincic’s love for colorblocking was taken to the next level, with bright neon greens and oranges, employing multiple techniques in each piece. Last spring, she paneled dresses with different fabrics and textures, but today, she played with varying lengths and folds. One standout dress was a pleated mini-kilt from the back, but the front was split in half, with a long pleated panel at each side. In person, this was as complex as it sounds, and refreshingly different to anything we’ve seen so far this season.
Her classic longer-length dresses were there for her loyal customers as well, and the models’ giant hairbows brought a sweet element to even the slickest pieces. But in a season where many of the London shows have blurred into one, this was an excellent showcase of the innovation people expect to see in this city.