To build his spring collection, Roland Mouret thought a lot about Daniel Buren’s transformation of the Palais Royale in 1986. The artist’s abstract installation, Les Deux Plateaux, which is a cement grid marked by columns painted with black and white stripes, was quite controversial at the time. “It was about deconstruction, contradiction, a clash of colors,” Mouret said before the show this morning. “I never want to be too safe.”
The designer took the black and white candy stripes of Buren’s installation and put them on his signature form-fitting dresses—as well as pencil skirts, crop tops, and collarless coats. But he applied them in a happenstance, patchwork format. He also mixed in plenty of color: saturated versions of magenta, yellow, and teal added just enough punch. Yet the strongest look might have been an all-white dress—its folds and subtle white-on-white stripes gave it dimension.
Mouret has a loyal following of women who love his power dresses. He’s now set on expanding his audience even further—particularly in the US. And part of that push will include a new collaboration. With whom, you ask? Watch this space for updates.