Brian Wolk and Claude Morais love to mix vintage inspirations and cutting-edge styles, poetry and functionality–and they’re known for their rich, opulent fabrics. This season, they looked to the melancholic St. Tropez of French author Francoise Sagan, as chronicled in her masterpiece Bonjour Tristesse, which describes the torments of a father-daughter relationship.
The collection was based on a ’50s flower-printed swatch from St. Tropez, which the designers used as a starting point for a series of printed shirts, dresses and suits with bold, graphic or subdued florals. As Pink Floyd’s “We Don’t Need No Education” blasted, the models showed off skinny satin suits in ’50s pastel pink and green, vaporous bow tie shirts and structured miniskirts in shiny rubber coated canvas and silk. The seaside influence was present, too, with navy blue silk dresses and crisp white collars. There was a clash of toughness and innocence, appropriately. “It was a mix between the colors of St. Tropez and the darkness of the relationship described by Sagan,” said the designers backstage after the show.
But while the collection was coherent, pretty and wearable, it ultimately seemed a bit uninspired. Perhaps next season the designers would benefit from taking more creative risks and pushing their vision to a new level.