The critics might have a lot to say about the Spring 2014 Saint Laurent collection, but they surely won’t complain about the jackets. Cut nicely in beautiful fabrics, the pieces paid homage to Le Smoking. It was the first time since his tenure began that Hedi Slimane directly referenced designs of the house’s namesake. Slimane made them his own by giving the trousers a skinny leg and high waist, and oversizing the blazers. Glen plaid, black leather, wool gabardine: Every iteration worked.
The dresses, too, worked—most were one shouldered, and gave off an early ’80s vibe. On the runway: a puffed-sleeve, a zig-zag print mini worn with leather leggings, a hot pink flippy style covered in geometric shapes, and a flamenco mini with the world’s biggest ruffle. In fact, they were all minis, since Slimane seems to want to keep things young and fun. Even the classic wrap dress was sexed up in liquid gold lamé—it was worn close to the body and high on the thigh.
Music, youth, Los Angeles: These ideas are central to Slimane’s vision for Saint Laurent, and they will undoubtedly continue to be. What he did tonight, though, was acknowledge who came before him. The clothes looked more sophisticated because Slimane is thinking in a more sophisticated way.