Simone Rocha’s approach to fall 2013 was soft, sweet, and very pink and pretty. So, in turn, she went in a tougher, darker direction for spring. And it was well worth the risk: this collection felt even stronger than last season’s (which was a pretty big hit).
The silhouettes were still rooted in classic femininity: dresses and tops with sweetheart necklines, voluminous skirts, and sleek cocoon dresses and coats. But they had an edge to them: some skirts were adorned with an asymmetrical ruffle or tulle panel or a rounded cutout–each served to give the pieces a deconstructed, Commes des Garcons-esque feel. We also got a bit of a punk (or New Romantics?) vibe: Many pieces were encrusted with pearls around the hemlines and necklines, instead of more predictable studs. Flat oxfords paired with sheer pearl-adorned knee-high socks alluded to combat boots. Joy Division blared from the speakers.
Rocha stayed away from color aside from a few green looks. The whole collection felt like a cool collage I’d want to hang on my wall–this was especially true of the final looks: layered white frocks with beige, tulle…erm..headdresses? veils? that literally wrapped around the models’ heads and upper bodies as if they were a gift. Not at all wearable, but we were definitely digging Rocha’s vision.