The 5 Most Critically Acclaimed Shows of London Fashion Week

Is it just us, or was London Fashion Week more than the usual whirlwind? Might have been the nonstop rain. In case you're still trying to get all yo
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Is it just us, or was London Fashion Week more than the usual whirlwind? Might have been the nonstop rain. In case you're still trying to get all yo

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Is it just us, or was London Fashion Week more than the usual whirlwind? Might have been the nonstop rain. In case you're still trying to get all your young British talents in a row, flash back with Report Card now for each day's critics' pick for best in show.

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Christopher Raeburn Designer: Christopher Raeburn

  • "Sustainable design, functionality and material re-appropriation are his bag. And we can only admire him for the uncompromising clarity of his vision. His SS14 offering is very Raeburnish." [ELLEuk.com]
  • "With a confident big catwalk debut, the designer with utility at the heart of his DNA took standard issue outdoor gear and gave it a feminine twist with drawstring nylon shift dresses, mesh panelled sweatshirts and pants, as well as prints that looked like they had been lifted from ordinance survey maps of very rough terrain." [FT.com]
  • "Be it combat or cocktail hour, Christopher Raeburn’s got you covered." [NOWFASHION]
  • "This was Raeburn's most elevated and polished-looking womenswear collection by a long shot, and piece for piece there wasn't a bad look." [Style.com]
  • "Clearly not wind, nor rain, nor sun-scorched desert can stop this designer from having fun." [Vogue.com]
  • "Since he launched his eponymous label in 2008, Royal College of Art graduate Christopher Raeburn has made a name for his outerwear--and he's won us over with it time and time again. This afternoon, however, he added a good dose of finesse to the mix." [Vogue.com UK]
  • "The collection was filled with stripped-down classics such as lightweight military-inspired dresses and coats with patch pockets and drawstring waists, while fluttery, shiny fabrics lit up other utilitarian silhouettes." [WWD]

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J.W. Anderson Designer: John Anderson

  • "J.W. takes sex and turns it into something medicinal." [The Daily Telegraph]
  • "There was a minimal 90s feels to the clothes, but they were anything but simple." [ELLEuk.com]
  • "Sheer dresses elasticated to chop up the body in a variety of unflattering ways, pleated leather bunched into hobbling skirts--paired with breast-revealing squares of cellophane-like organza – and ruched flesh-coloured crepe dresses that conjured up the after effects of dramatic weight loss." [FT.com]
  • "Anderson is a conceptual designer for sure but this work was not tortured. That and a level of expertise that is impressive given his relative youth makes his a name to watch." [Grazia Daily]
  • "With show notes referring to wipe clean table cloths, Vileda supermops and takeaway boxes, the detritus of a kitchen was in focus. In Anderson's hands, though, they were anything but everyday. He dubbed them 'avant-bland.'" [The Guardian]
  • "As the press release rightly disclaims 'motifs of the collection are to be found through feeling.' It is the irrationality that resonates with our times and makes JW Anderson the alluring mind game that is hard to resist." [NOWFASHION]
  • "Femininity has been redesigned with a futuristic edge." [POPSUGAR Fashion]
  • "At this point, it's reasonable to expect J.W. Anderson to advance the technical and formal aspects of his brand by leaps each season; what made this outing such a wonderful surprise was that he stretched himself in terms of mood and point of view. You could even say it was a surprise analogous to a whole month of English sunshine." [Style.com]
  • "It was beautiful, even touching on the poetic in parts—textured geometries in corrugated pleats and embossed herringbone pleather, transparencies bisected with elasticated gathers, delicately draped and ruched chiffon suspended from thread-fine halters." [Vogue.com
  • "Above all else, it was a collection that cemented this young designer’s position--the fact that he is only in his twenties is remarkable." [Vogue.com UK]
  • "There were great moments of strange beauty, often quite wearable, too." [WWD]

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L'Wren Scott Designer: L'Wren Scott

  • "A look that was indebted to Asian culture from head to toe." [Grazia Daily]
  • "On Sunday at London fashion week the formidable Scott, who stands 6'3" in her handmade brogues, showed for the second season that her clothes are quite capable of stealing the limelight from the diminutive rock star seated next to Anna Wintour." [The Guardian]
  • "It is tough not to let a Japanese theme seem stagey. But Ms. Scott, taking her bow in the plainest of black tops and pants, put all the charm in the detail." [International Herald Tribune]
  • "There’s a sorcery quality in her femininity, too, and she brings it out with vivid reds, fan-patterned black lace and a crisp silhouette for daytime tweeds and cotton." [The New York Times]
  • "The label has made the siren warmer and less threatening, though just as powerfully sensual." [POPSUGAR Fashion]
  • "Asked why her soundtrack incongruously featured a song called 'Baby Did a Bad, Bad Thing,' Scott fessed up that the horrendous expense of her embellishment was her bad, bad thing. But it's hardly anything she'll go to hell for." [Style.com]
  • "Stripped of these playful accoutrements, the lean-leg pantsuits, shapely jackets, and pencil-skirted dresses were flattering and eminently wearable." [Vogue.com]
  • "An example of impeccable workmanship, it was also nearly impossible to imagine off the runway." [WWD]

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Christopher Kane Designer: Christopher Kane

  • "Scottish-born designer Christopher Kane tapped into flower power for his spring and summer floral fashion collection Monday, and the petals pulled him through despite a confusing detour or two." [AP]
  • "Between the casual and cool sweatshirts emblazoned with words such as 'PETAL' and 'FLOWER' and a fashionable diagram of a flower cross-section, Kane created a seriously chic throwback to high school biology class." [The Daily Beast]
  • "Florals--that tritest of all spring themes--were reinvented by Kane following a recent trip to his old school." [The Daily Telegraph]
  • "Christopher Kane is in another league to his London designer compatriots. Technique, focus, artistry, uniqueness and imagination seem to run through his fingertips and into clothes that are--when seen one look after another on his mirror-floored warehouse this morning--quite simply breath-taking." [ELLEuk.com]
  • "'Everyone does flowers but if I do them I don't want them to be like anyone else's' Christopher Kane said backstage at his show. And they weren't." [Grazia Daily]
  • "It was 'the sexual undertones of flowers,' of anatomy and deflowering, which formed the starting point for the clothes." [The Guardian]
  • "Kane’s shtick was stems, but he turned the cliche of spring florals on its head." [The Independent]
  • "Not since Georgia O’Keeffe’s sensual paintings has an artist made so much of the sexuality of flowers." [International Herald Tribune]
  • "Mr. Kane had some lovely things: pleated skirts in delicate, slightly shimmery fabrics, a black pantsuit and some pastel dresses with petal-shaped cutouts rimmed in silver. But he spread himself too thin." [The New York Times]
  • "'Flowers for Spring…groundbreaking,' Miranda Priestly’s bitingly sarcastic critique on mediocrity from The Devil Wears Prada still resonates throughout the fashion industry and beyond. Not so for Kane, however." [NOWFASHION]
  • "A mirrored runway made reflecting on Christopher Kane's thought-provoking Spring 2014 collection a thrilling task." [POPSUGAR Fashion]
  • "Silhouettes were simple and floating lace and pleats made an airy collection, though contrasts were present through oversized sweaters, prints and appliqués." [Speakeasy/

    The Wall Street Journal]

  • "All in all, the range Kane has is immensely impressive, right down to his sparkling flower jewelry, which was strung on stretchy bands that can be wrapped and clipped onto clothing at will." [Vogue.com]
  • "As with all Kane shows, there were countless ideas at play here. Like silvery brocade skirt suits, black crepe midi length skirts and tailored trouser suits with graphic teardrop cut-outs edged in silver leather, and a series of fluffed and frothy spray-painted effect T-shirts and dresses bristling with hologram tinsel." [Vogue.com UK]
  • "It was a state-of-the-art collection--light and uniquely feminine." [WWD]

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Simone Rocha Designer: Simone Rocha

  • "A collection of all-white outfits, sheer cut-out panels, neons and leather that mixed schoolgirl innocence with cool attitude." [AP]
  • "Elegantly refined." [The Daily Beast]
  • "She invited us to a beautifully polished punk wedding, the guests sporting bunched mohicans and clompy sandals." [ELLEuk.com]
  • "Kicking off London Fashion Week's final day, Simon Rocha's SS14 collection offered up yet another convincing argument for the validity of this city's reputation as the crucible of fashion creativity." [Grazia Daily]
  • "The Simone Rocha show on the closing day of London Fashion Week was a fine example of that meld of strong spirit coupled with high quality from the family atelier." [International Herald Tribune]
  • "Worth paying attention to next spring." [The New York Times]
  • "If pearls as an embellishment seem too delicate for your taste, Simone Rocha's studded Spring 2014 collection may have you thinking again." [POPSUGAR Fashion]
  • "Simone Rocha may have sent her models down the runway with faux hawks, but many of the looks they wore would be as at home on Fifth Avenue as in Alphabet City." [Speakeasy/

    The Wall Street Journal]

  • "Simply put, this collection felt like the end of innocence. There was a poetic depth to these looks, and an edge of menace. Not to mention a sense of sexual authority." [Style.com]
  • "Somehow, she always manages to undercut the sweetness of dirndl-dresses she likes, and make hand-craftiness (lace, broderie anglaise, and crochet) marry up with plastic, spongy synthetics and leather." [Vogue.com]
  • "Simone Rocha has a knack for tapping into the zeitgeist. She did it last season with all that pretty pink, and this time, she got the measure of spring's monochrome moment." [Vogue.com UK]
  • "Simone Rocha made excellent work of her Irish roots, drawing on the west of the island-- Connemara--its Catholic traditions and seaside landscape for collection of beautiful melancholy." [WWD]