Going to a show by The Row feels different than going to any other show during New York fashion week. It feels separate, removed from the frenzied and commercial fashion week slog.
Part of that has to do with the venue: Last season it was a well-appointed and elegant townhouse; this season it was a more traditional white box in SoHo that was shrouded in airy white muslin. Even though everyone had 10-plus more shows to get to that day, there was a sense of calm inside. It also has to do with the pacing of the models. They walk sloooowly, serenely, almost like they’re under water. All the better to take in another truly fantastic collection from Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen.
This season The Row woman is a nomad–wandering, perhaps, through the desert in Morocco, or along the Silk Road–picking up treasures along the way: tassels, silk panels of floral embroidery, a sheer silk scarf to wear over her head, a wide-brimmed hat or visor. Of course, it was never too much. Sticking to a color palette of rust, cream, and black, monochrome looks were layered but never busy. The proportions were long and lean–like a long duster coat over a mid-calf length crinkled georgette skirt; or a white gauzy roomy maxi dresses with faint mohair embroidery; or a long-sleeved black jacquard top with ruffled sleeves and a sort of peplum hem over a boxy knee-length skirt. These looks were covered up but alluring at the same time. And all of them were paired with handmade leather loafers and mules, crafted by Enzo Bonafe for The Row, marking the duo’s first foray into footwear. No surprise here: the Olsens have another hit on their hands.