Zac Posen didn’t show a single pair of pants in his spring 2014 collection and that’s exactly how it should be. The man is a master of the statement gown.
Last season, Posen showed his fall collection at a salon in the Plaza, but this year he presented in a pared down and rather gritty industrial space in west Chelsea. Show goers were confused–and terrified, frankly–during the clunky, cavernous freight elevator ride that took them one floor up to the show. But the raw space was a perfect juxtaposition for Posen’s collection.
Zac Posen’s designs have a “look,” and all of his favorite elements were there for this season. Nipped-in waists, mermaid gowns, bustiers and corsets so stiff that they move in the opposite direction of the models’ shoulders when they walk, making for a really seductive visual. But in general everything was softened for spring, to the point that the girls were almost angelically floating down the runway. I was waiting for the harps to start playing, that’s how pretty it was.
This season the collection was inspired by impressionism, specifically the gardens. Muted dusty florals on floaty, tiered chiffon made for the most ethereal and unabashedly romantic collection I’ve seen from Posen in a long time. Which is saying something.
The vibe was enhanced by the beauty look, and I love how Posen always fully commits to a look every season. Odile Gilbert (for Kerastase) gave the models messy yet dramatic updos, and then sprinkled in small flowers to match the gowns. (Chloe Norgaard’s grass green hair with lilac flowers was particularly striking.) The makeup (by Kabuki for MAC) was inspired by ballerinas, which was appropos for this collection, because there were many dresses that wouldn’t have looked out of place accessorized with pointe shoes.
I have no doubt that Posen’s celeb posse will be trotting out these designs on future red carpets. Christina Hendricks was front and center at the show, along with Stacy Keibler, Molly Sims, and Kelly Osbourne. Posen’s celeb friends are loyal to him every season, as are his model BFFs. Coco Rocha opened (but didn’t close the show, which is a departure) and Crystal Renn and Anna Cleveland–who has the most distinctive, kooky walk–both represented on the runway.
The show made me regret my decision to wear ripped up boyfriend jeans that day, but I definitely sat up a bit straighter. A Zac Posen collection just has that effect on you.