Before his show, Tim Coppens told Esquire online that his inspiration for the season was, abstrusely, “stripes, metal and stars.” That sound bite was accompanied by a Xeroxed, gray scale photograph of a Formula 1 racecar. Clearly, the CFDA nominated designer was gunning for muscle, and flex those tendons he most certainly did.
Coppens opened his show with a noir, zipped-off-the-center mechanic’s suit, tabbed at the neckline and cantilevered at the shoulders in gunmetal iron-wool accents. Vroom vroom. That robustness–horse-powered, but fine-tuned, much like a supercar’s engine we’d imagine–continued throughout, and was especially well executed on a bomber jacket rendered in the aforementioned Brillo material, but with tobacco colored collars. The hue–alternatives of which were spotted elsewhere, such as with a banded sweater in canary, or a brilliant motorcycle-paneled jumper in navy–imbued a kind of luxe richness to the lineup’s overarching mettle. A Bentley sedan, if you will, idling alongside all the speed-machines down on the racetrack.
Novelty also abounded. For example, linearly offset tops and five-point stars appliqued on loafers added a quirkiness that mixed in well. Should fashion be a Grand Prix of sorts, consider the checkered flag waving for Coppens after this one.