Designer Yigal Azrouel’s work has always been, first and foremost, about a celebration of the woman’s body. This season, with its curve hugging sheer mesh knit cocktail dresses and just above the breast and side body cut-outs, was no exception.
“For every collection, we start of course with the woman and we don’t really know where we’re going,” explained Azrouel backstage after the show, which utilized cool, dramatic lighting and a somber palette of jet black, white and stone grey to place his woman in the shadows. “Everything was very precise and built on the body–we worked with the girls,” he continued.
“It was not just making the pieces. It was making the pieces on the girl that was actually walking in them and we built a story on that. We went through an experience to get to the collection.”
That the looks were molded to each individual model’s body was evident in Azrouel’s clean tailoring and the near perfect, architectural fit of the clothes. Sharp, sculptural pieces like the calf-length oversized sleeveless vest that opened the show felt very much built to measure. The use of graphic twig-like black-and-white prints and embroidered eyelet silk gave the loose-fit suiting and lambskin culottes a strong, quiet appeal. It was a structure-conscious–but still sexy–collection, made to make the woman feel like the focus of the clothes: Just a bit exposed, but not without a certain steely, gravitating power.